RV Delamintion And Crack Repair Mesa, AZ

rv delamination repairAbout 20 years ago, a new method of RV construction came on the market: smooth fiberglass exterior walls constructed by sandwiching an outer skin of smooth fiberglass with the frame structure and Styrofoam or fiberglass insulation in the middle and the interior wall paneling on the interior.

With adhesive between the different layers, it was intended to create a bonded single unit wall panel that greatly decreased the labor involved with building an RV.

An additional benefit was the fact that the new sidewalls had better aerodynamics. Plus, the new smooth look improved the sale of RVs from trailers to motorhomes.

As with many new methods it all looked real good in the beginning.  But soon, a few bugs came to the surface.  After a few years, some of the early models started having problems with the ply’s or layers of the wall structure starting to come apart (or delaminate).


What To Look For

The first evidence of a delamination problem is bubbles (or blisters) forming on the sidewalls as the luan plywood under the outer fiberglass layer breaks down, allowing it to pull away from the wall structure.

Delamination is generally caused by moisture infiltrating the wall and destroying the integrity of the luan plywood.

Flexing in the wall structure can also lead to the adhesive failing or cracks developing.  Cracks are another similar issue that will rapidly send the value of your investment plummeting.



Speaking From Experience

I had a 1993 Winnebago motorhome that had a crack develop as I was preparing for a trip from Minnesota to Arizona one February.  The crack ran from the corner of the kitchen window at an angle down toward an access panel.

An older Class C mini-home I once owned also had cracks at both lower corners of the window in the center of the back wall.

Here’s the bad news.  Both delamination and cracks are very expensive and sometimes impossible to properly repair unless the complete sidewall of the unit is removed and replaced.


How To Fix Cracks & Delamination Problems

Some body shops suggest that by cutting out the affected area of outer fiberglass and removing the damaged luan plywood, you can then replace the plywood with new substructure and re-glue the fiberglass panel back in place.  The finished repair will surly be visible unlessrv delamination repair masqueraded with a large decal.

I tried fiberglass patches, layering a couple strips of new fiberglass over the crack and smoothing with Bondo.  Within the first day of driving, the cracks reappeared — going right through the new fiberglass.  Both attempts to make cost-effective repairs failed quickly.

I was lucky.  Under a special warranty program, the Winnebago factory covered the cost of my sidewall replacement for that particular RV..  The cracking situation I experienced was determined to be a design problem, and they stood behind their product.

Buyer Beware: If You Spot Delamination Or Cracks

Over the years, I’ve seen many RVs that have delamination issues that just continue to get worse.

This should be a huge red flag if you’re shopping for a used RV of any make or model.

If you detect any area where you feel the fiberglass has pulled away from the inner structure, just pass that RV by.

In some instances structural integrity of the whole RV has been compromised.  The wall skin supplies some of the strength of the entire wall.  Picture it like your house without the outer skin being attached to the studs.  The house would be weakened to the point of collapse.

The cost of replacing a sidewall would likely surpass the total value of the entire RV.  As the delamination gets worse — and it will — the value of your investment will slide downhill rapidly.

Unless you’ve managed to secure a deal good enough that you can overlook the damage, the best choice is to look at a different RV.

Resale value will be drastically reduced in the future.  Not many people will be interested in buying an RV that suffers from terminal delamination.

Thank You



RV Generator Repair Mesa Az

How to Troubleshoot RV Generators

  1. 1 Make sure you have enough fuel in your fuel tank.
    • Most RV generators stop running if the fuel tank is not at least half full. This is to prevent the RV from using its’ entire fuel supply.
    • Check the fuel gauge to make sure that the tank is at least half full.
    • Add fuel if there is not enough.
  2. 2

    Inspect the exhaust system.

    • This is under the RV.
    • To make sure that you inspect all components of the exhaust system, consult RV Generator Repair Mesa Arizonayour RV’s manual for a detailed description of where to look.
    • Check for surface damage to the exhaust system.
    • Check for oil and fuel leaks.
    • Gently pull on the exhaust system to confirm that it is securely attached to the RV.
    • If there is any damage to the exhaust system, have a RV mechanic repair it.
  3. 3

    Inspect and clean the wire lines.

    • Consult your RV’s manual for the locations of all wire lines.
    • Check them for corrosion, rust, and other debris.
    • Use an air pump to dislodge any materials that are stuck between the wires. This can be purchased at a camping supply store.
  4. 4

    Check the oil level in the RV.

    • If the oil pressure drops below a certain point, some generators have a sensor that will turn the generator off.
    • Consult your RV’s manual for how to check the oil.
    • If the oil level is below the recommended amount for your RV, add enough oil to meet the recommended amount.
    • Press the start button so that the generator will not bypass the oil pressure cut off circuit. Consult your RV’s manual for the location of this button.
    • Verify that the sensor wire has not been damaged. Consult your RV’s manual for its’ location.
    • Have a RV mechanic repair any damage to the sensor wire, if necessary.
  5. 5

    Change the oil and filter (optional).

    • Check your RV’s manual for the recommended service schedule for oil and filterRV Generator Repair Mesa Arizona changes. If it is past due, this should be completed.
    • Change the oil and filters if you know how to do so or have a RV mechanic do it.
    • Run the generator for 10 seconds and turn it off.
    • Inspect the generator for oil leaks or wipe it with a white cloth.
    • If oil is leaking from the generator, have it repaired.
  6. 6

    Test your RV generator.

    • Turn the generator on and observe its’ performance.
    • After completing these steps, the RV generator should function properly. If it still does not work properly, have a RV mechanic evaluate it.

RV Tire Blowout Repair Scottsdale Az

When it comes to determining the age of a tire, it is easy to identify when a tire was manufactured by reading its Tire Identification Number (often referred to as the tire’s serial number). Unlike vehicle identification numbers (VINs) and the serial numbers used on many other consumer goods (which identify one specific item), Tire Identification Numbers are really batch codes that identify the week and year the tire was produced.

The U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) requires that Tire Identification Numbers be a combination of the letters DOT, followed by ten, eleven or twelve letters and/or numbers that identify the manufacturing location, tire size and manufacturer’s code, along with the week and year the tire was manufactured.

Tires Manufactured Since 2000

Since 2000, the week and year the tire was produced has been provided by the last four digits of the Tire Identification Number with the 2 digits being used to identify the week immediately preceding the 2 digits used to identify the year.

Example of a tire manufactured since 2000 with the current Tire Identification Number format:

In the example above:
DOT U2LL LMLR 5107 Manufactured during the 51st week of the year
DOT U2LL LMLR 5107 Manufactured during 2007

While the entire Tire Identification Number is required to be branded onto one sidewall of every tire, current regulations also require that DOT and the first digits of the Tire Identification Number must also be branded onto the opposite sidewall. Therefore, it is possible to see a Tire Identification Number that appears incomplete and requires looking at the tire’s other sidewall to find the entire Tire Identification Number


The use of a partial Tire Identification Number on the one sidewall (shown above) reduces the risk of injury to the mold technician that would have to install the weekly date code on the top sidewall portion of a hot tire mold.

Tires Manufactured Before 2000

The Tire Identification Number for tires produced prior to 2000 was based on the assumption that tires would not be in service for ten years. While they were required to provide the same information as today’s tires, the week and year the tire was produced was contained in the last three digits. The 2 digits used to identify the week a tire was manufactured immediately preceded a single digit used to identify the year.

Example of a tire manufactured before 2000 with the earlier Tire Identification Number format:

In the example above:
DOT EJ8J DFM 408 Manufactured during the 40th week of the year
DOT EJ8J DFM  408 Manufactured during the 8th year of the decade

While the previous Tire Identification Number format identified that a tire was built in the 8th year of a decade, there was no universal identifier that confirmed which decade (tires produced in the 1990s may have a small triangle following the Tire Identification Number to identify the decade).

And finally, hold on to your sales receipt. Most tire manufacturer’s warranties cover their tires for four years from the date of purchase or five years from the week the tires were manufactured. So if you purchase new tires that were manufactured exactly two years ago they will be covered for a total of six years (four years from the date of purchase) as long as you have your receipt. If you lose your receipt, your tires’ warranty coverage will end five years from the week the tire was produced (resulting in the tire manufacturer’s warranty coverage ending only three years from the date of purchase in this example).

Most Popular Links

Air Pressure – Correct, Underinflated and Overinflated
Air Pressure vs. Dry Performance
Air Pressure vs. Wet Performance
Air Pressure, Temperature Fluctuations
Air Pressure/Load Adjustment for High Speed Driving
Air Pressure: When and How to Set
Breaking In Your Tires
Calculating Tire Dimensions
Checking Tire Inflation Pressure
Determining the Age of a Tire
Diameter Comparison of Light Truck Tire Sizes
How Do I Compare Price vs. Value?
How to Read Speed Rating, Load Index & Service Descriptions
Load Range/Ply Rating Identification
Match Mounting to Enhance Tire & Wheel Uniformity
Load Reduction of Euro- and P-Metric Tires on Light Trucks
Measuring Tire Tread Depth with a Coin
Mounting and Balancing
P-Metric and Euro Metric Tire Sizing
Run-Flat Tires
Selecting the Right Tires
Sidewall Markings
Specific Mileage Warranties
The Plus Concept
Tire & Wheel Owner’s Manual
Tire & Wheel Package Installation Instructions
Tire & Wheel Package Ride Uniformity Confirmation
Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems
Tire Rotation
Tire Size Conversion Chart
Tire Size Information
Tire Warranties
Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG) Standards
Where to Install New Pairs of Tires?


Click to Verify - This site has chosen an SSL Certificate to improve Web site security

RV Repair Durango Colorado

Monaco Warranty And Service Mesa AZWell you’ve bought the beast and it sits in the side yard just waiting to go out
for it’s next adventure. However towards the end of your last trip you started
to notice some things that you thought needed attention.

The first
question you have to ask yourself is whether or not you should even attempt some
of the maintenance items yourself. Are you ready, or qualified, for do it
yourself RV repairs? Unless properly trained and prepared, recreational vehicle
owners should not attempt to make certain repairs or perform service on any RV,
product or component. If you don’t believe me I’ll give you my father’s phone
number and you can ask him how much he paid the mechanic after one of his “I can
do it myself thank you very much” attempts. I was there. It turned out very
badly. It got VERY dark on the side of the road that cold night in

The Two Types of Repairs

There are
basically two types of RV service; crisis repairs and preventive maintenance.
Preventive maintenance can include such items as the following: checking and
sealing the roof, windows, storage compartments and doors, cleaning, flushing
and servicing the LP appliances, changing the oil in the generator and chassis
engine and checking all fluid levels, cleaning the filters in the roof air
conditioners, cleaning and treating your holding tanks, flushing and sanitizing
your fresh water system, performing battery maintenance. These can be considered
something you do now to prevent something worse from happening later. Call it
insurance if you like. Crisis repairs (also known as Holy Cripes what now!), on
the other hand, offer no options. The problem is staring you right in the face
and if you want to get back on the road it has to be handled now. A few examples
of crisis repairs would be an abnormally worn tire, a flat tire, or a blown

Fortunately preventive maintenance will go a long way towards
minimizing the frequency and the degree of crisis-type repairs. Routine tire
inspection and careful study of inflation pressures, checking and cleaning the
refrigerator components and checking the LP pressure, regular oil changes, and
periodic cleaning of the air conditioner filters can all prevent the above
crisis repairs from happening. Remember the old adage.. Pound Wise, Penny
foolish. .

Do It Yourself?

Oh yeah, remember that
warranty you got along with the vehicle the day you shelled out the bucks to
drive it off the dealers lot? Read it carefully before you even attempt to
loosen a screw. In some cases, warranties may be voided or manufacturer
liability lessened if unauthorized repairs are performed Some maintenance items,
though mandated by the product manufacturer, may not be covered by new or
extended warranties. Rarely are maintenance items ever covered under warranty.
The key is knowing when to actively participate and when to simply make an
appointment at your local service facility.

So the warranty is run out
and you are in the garage getting the tools out. There a few more considerations
to ponder before you dive in.

Am I physically fit and mechanically adept?
- Buck up and realize your limitations there laddie or lassie. Ask yourself,
“Can I physically perform the steps necessary to do this?” Many items in, under,
on and around motorhomes require physical dexterity. Physical limitations may
prohibit some of us from performing certain maintenance items. If the subject at
hand is truly over your head then it’s ok to back off and call a pro. You
definitely do not want to risk converting a simple maintenance task into a
costly crisis repair! It will cost substantially more to undo an error than to
simply make an appointment with a service center if the subject is beyond your
scope. (Again I offer my dad’s phone number to anyone who doubts

Do you have a willingness to learn – If you truly want to be able
to perform some routine maintenance items, be willing to do a little homework.
Servicing LP related appliances and components, for instance, virtually mandates
a basic understanding of the sequence of operation of that appliance. Both
electrically and with the flow of the LP gas. Each appliance is different, but
your advantage is that you only need to learn those that pertain to your RV. And
it’s not that difficult to learn. Oh, it requires reading and studying the
literature that came with your rv, but for the most part, it can be

Have the right tools – Be aware that many maintenance tasks
require a selection of tools and that some require specialty tools that you may
not have in your tool kit. Here are a few specialty tools you may want to
eventually acquire:

Manometer – this device allows you to measure the LP
pressure correctly.

Never adjust your LP regulator without using a

Thermocouple tester – used to bench test LP appliance

Battery hydrometer – one that is temperature compensated is
more accurate.

Volt, Ohm, multi-meter (VOM) – a digital one is best, but
any is better than just a simple test lamp

Consider the time factor -
Always plan your approach to any maintenance task appropriately. Realize that
all maintenance requires time. Be sure to allot yourself plenty of time to
complete whatever it is you are undertaking. Do not rush yourself. You are more
likely to omit a step or make a mistake if you are under pressure to complete a
task when in a hurry. Remember, the next time you perform that same task, the
time element will be reduced. Familiarity and repetition will breed

How to “Do It Yourself”

The following
suggestions will get you started.

Prepare a proper and clean work area -
Having a clean work area for whatever the task may be is vital in order to avoid
confusion and also help keep the coach clean if you must traipse in and out of
it several times. When servicing the appliances for example, it is best to
perform the maintenance tasks with the appliances left in the installed
positions. An exception would be the RV furnace. In some instances concerning
the furnace, better results are attained if the furnace is removed and the work
performed on a bench.

If you will be needing electricity, have your
extension cord uncoiled and strategically placed prior to starting. Likewise, if
using a drill motor, have the correct size drill bit, or screwdriver tip at
hand. Proper preparation will make any maintenance task easier. Did you remember
to allow enough time to do the work?

Have all replacement parts ready to
go – Have all replacement parts prepared and laid out for easy access. If your
maintenance task involves threaded fittings, a handy tip is to apply the correct
sealant or Teflon tape before actually starting the work. It’s much neater and
easier when your hands are relatively clean. Lay the fittings aside and cover
them with a shop towel or cloth until needed. If the new parts need any type of
pre-assembly, do it now, before you get engrossed in the task at hand. If some
parts in a repair kit will not be needed, separate and discard them prior to
beginning. This will simplify your repair and avoid any confusion you may
encounter later when you realize you have a few parts left over.

the necessary support materials – As mentioned earlier, have all wiring
diagrams, service notes, installation instructions or any other type of resource
open and within easy reach before starting the job. If you feel you may need
additional help or support information, postpone the maintenance until all the
necessary information is in your hand. Remember, preparation is much easier for
a preventive maintenance procedure as opposed to an unwanted crisis repair.
Also, keep in mind many maintenance tasks are now available on detailed
instructional video tapes. Check out our Video Library Page. Additionally, many
local community colleges now offer classes for the RVer and RV shows offer
seminars on RV maintenance.

Get to know a local service facility – Do Not
Leave This Step Out! Even though you may want to perform some maintenance
yourself, always get to know a local dealer or service center in your area.
Eventually your going to have to swallow your pride and call on them for help
and aside from being there to order parts for you, they can also be a good
source of information.

Additional tips – Never attempt to adjust your RV
generator yourself. This is one area that is definitely better left to your
service shop. Many specialty tools are required, as the generator needs to be
load tested while making governor and carburetor adjustments. Load banks and
specialty testers are beyond the scope of the do-it-yourselfer. Just remember
that on the RV generator every mechanical adjustment that is made has an
electrical result. You cannot tune a generator by ear. This item is for the

Also never attempt to adjust your LP regulator without the
knowledge and use of a water column manometer. Changes in the delivery pressure,
though crucial to each appliance cannot be determined by visually watching a
burner flame. Too high LP pressure will damage many appliances, while too low of
a delivery pressure will result in improper combustion and inefficient appliance

By honestly accessing your technical expertise, learning and
gathering a resource library of sorts for those items on your coach, and
acquiring the proper tools and parts, you may be just ready to experience the
fun of maintaining your investment for your leisure over the road enjoyment. It
is hoped that major repair costs are avoided and total enjoyment is realized
from the experiences of working on your own motorhome.

Thank you,

Monty Germaine

RV Extended Warranty Repair Center Mesa AZ

Should I get an extended warranty for my RV?


RV Extened Warranty Repair Center Mesa AzThe extended warranty concept is very much like life insurance. The life insurance company is betting that you will live, and you are betting that you won’t. Carrying that example forward, RV extended warranty companies are betting that little will go wrong, and the buyer is betting that things will.

Readers of Consumer Reports and other sources have historically heard that the extended warranty is unnecessary, and recommends against them for cars and major appliances. Therefore, it would be logical to assume that RV extended warranties are also a bad deal for the customer.

However, in most cases the logic of this argument needs to be reconsidered when considering an RV. Cars and major appliances are built in far greater numbers than any RV model. The manufacturing process is refined and the resulting product is very predictable. All mainstream car companies offer
at least a 36 month warranty as standard. Some go to 60 months, with power trains going to 100,00 miles. A normal year’s production of a mainstream class A diesel pusher could be less than 500. Almost all RVs have only a 12 month “bumper-to-bumper” warranty. Why the difference between cars and RVs?

1) With such a small number of RVs built, the manufacturing process is mostly manual. This lack of automated assembly results in a high variance in quality and gives little time for feedback regarding errors in design or faulty components.

2) RVs are dramatically more complex than any car. In most cases, they can be thought of as a house on wheels. RVs have all the same capabilities of a house – fresh water systems, water heaters, ducted air conditioning and heaters, entertainment systems and much much more. Take this complex set of
systems and subject them to a 3,000 mile trip across the country, bouncing on roadways, pushed side to side over gravel, dealing with potholes and uneven road surfaces, and it is easy to understand why fittings, connections and other critical components could easily have a hard time.

This results in the development of many problems over the life of a RV and explains why the manufacturer limits their responsibility to 12 months. Finding a good, reliable and stable company to provide an extended warranty for an RV helps to deal with these problems whenever they occur – and they will occur!

While these warranties come from a number of companies, they are not all the same. One common point is the decision around the length, mileage and deductable of the coverage you want. After that it gets tricky and requires asking the right questions based on how you will use the RV. For example,
the normal policy provided by Good Sam, a reputable and fairly priced leader in the industry, does not include the wiring in the RV as part of their coverage. So, if your RV won’t start one day, and the cause is found to be a short in the wiring, your extended warranty will not cover it. For example, an RVer got stuck in Amarillo, Texas because the RV would not start. The RV was towed to a repair shop, where 3 days later they found a short in the wiring between the starter switch and the starter. This might sound like an
easy issue to solve, but the cost of the repair was $1200 and was not covered under the extended warranty.

The bottom line here, is that unlike cars, extended warranties for RVs make a lot of sense – if you get the right one. Most extended warranties purchased from the dealer can be worked into the RV financing, making everything easier to handle. If you don’t know what questions to ask to select the right policy, start with these:

- What is NOT covered by the policy?
- Does the policy require me to pay first and then get reimbursed, or will the company pay the repairer directly (less the deductable)?
- Is there any restriction on who can perform the repairs?
- Is there a limit on the distance the vehicle can be towed?

Clearly, extended warranties for RVs are a good idea if you intend to keep the RV for more than one year. Finding the right policy not only provides piece of mind, but will allow you to be sure that you will not be surprised by the cost of fixing the problems that might eventually occur.

RV Awning Repair And maintenance Mesa Az

Awnings are a great feature to have on your motorhome. There are several different types of RV awnings and they serve different purposes.

Window and door awnings provide shade and keep rain away from your RV windows or entry door. Slide-out awnings help to protect the top of the slideout from debris and water. And patio awnings can extend the living area of our outdoor world.

The awnings on your motorhome will provide years of reliable, trouble-free operation if you take the time to do a little preventive maintenance and cleaning.

Here are my top 7 tips for extending the life of your RV awnings.

1. The first step to maintaining your awnings is to understand more about the different types of awning fabrics. Fabric used on RV awnings is one of two types, acrylic or vinyl. Acrylic fabric is a woven cloth that lets air circulate through the fabric. This air circulation allows the fabric to dry quickly when it gets wet. Acrylic fabrics are water repellent, but not waterproof. If you have experience tent camping you know that you shouldn’t touch the underside of the tent when it’s wet. Touching the wet fabric allows water to seep through the fabric. The same applies to an acrylic awning fabric. Vinyl awning fabric is mildew resistant, but not necessarily mildew proof. Mildew can form on the dirt and dust that collects on the vinyl fabric. The mildew will be worse in high temperatures, high humidity and if the fabric is stored when it is wet.

Awning Repair Mesa2. When you open the awnings for the first time each year, or if an awning has been stored for a while, you will need to inspect the awning fabric for any signs of mildew or stains. Remember that vinyl awnings will mildew. To prevent dirt from imbedding in the woven fabric of an acrylic awning fabric, you should simply hose the fabric off on a routine basis. Avoid scrubbing acrylic awning fabric. Scrubbing can remove the water retardant finish. For stubborn stains, blot the approved cleaner on the acrylic fabric with a sponge or soft cloth.

3. For more difficult stains or mildew on a vinyl awning fabric, use an aftermarket commercial cleaner made just for awning fabrics. One method that seems to work well is to spray the inside and outside of the awning fabric with the appropriate cleaner and then roll it up and let it sit for several minutes. This distributes the cleaner over the entire surface of the awning fabric and allows the cleaner time to work. Open the awning and thoroughly rinse both sides of the fabric. It may be necessary to scrub stubborn stains with a brush on a vinyl awning fabric before rinsing. You can clean the awning hardware with the same cleaner you use to wash the RV.

Note: Never use oil-based or abrasive cleaners on awning fabrics. Clean and thoroughly rinse both sides of the awning fabric. Carefully follow all awning and cleaner manufacturer directions.

4. Inspect the awning fabric for any tears or excessive wear. Talk to your RV dealer about what materials to use to repairawning Repair Phoenix or patch the awning fabric. While the awning is out, inspect the awning hardware. The bottom awning brackets support most of the load from the awning. Check the lag screws in the awning brackets for secure mounting. Inspect the arm pivot holes for any enlarged holes or broken rivets in the handles. Check for a warped roller tube. If the roller tube is warped it will be noticeable when you roll the awning out. Inspect the awning end caps for secure mounting and any broken or loose rivets. Make sure the awning rail is securely mounted to the side of the RV.

Caution: Never attempt to remove the awning end caps. Spring tension can result in serious injury. Have any damaged or broken parts repaired before using the awning.

5. In addition to cleaning and inspecting your awnings, there are a few things to keep in mind when using the awnings, especially the patio awning. Always lower one end of the awning to allow for water runoff. The weight from water pooling on the awning fabric can cause extensive and costly damage. Any wind gusts over 20 miles per hour can also cause extensive damage to the awning and to the motorhome. Never leave the awning out unattended. If everyone is leaving the campsite, store the awning in the travel position. When you go to bed, store the awning. Even when you are at the campsite you should use awning tie downs to prevent any sudden damage caused by high wind gusts or a sudden storm. You have the option to position the awning arms straight down and stake them to the ground, but you will get better support if they’re attached to the bottom awning brackets on the side of the RV. Remember, it is much easier to prevent damage to your awning than it is to repair it.

Awning Repair Scottsdale6. Never store the awning when the fabric is wet. Allow enough time for it the fabric to dry completely, on both sides, before storing the awning.

7. Check with your RV insurance provider to make sure your RV awning is covered in the event of any damage. Some insurance companies require separate insurance coverage on the RV awnings.


Important Preventative Maintenance Tip Mesa Az

Important Preventative Maintenance Tip

The refrigerator, water heater and furnace have exterior burn chambers with burner tubes. In these areas, dirt, spider webs, insect nests, rust and debris often develop and collect. This debris buildup poses a fire hazard for you and your RV. It also bogs down the systems, and can eventually cause component failure within the system.  RV Renovators along with many manufacturers recommend that these appliance burn chambers and burner tubes be thoroughly cleaned out and the systems tested every 12 months. RV Renovators offers an “appliance service” that includes this preventative maintenance.  Many manufacturers also require annual servicing of their components in order to maintain their warranties. By taking care of these RV service and maintenance tasks now, you can avoid costly RV repairs down the road.

General Maintenance and RV Repairs Include:

  • Air-conditioning systems                               
  • Keyless entry
  • Antennas
  • Lighting
  • Appliances
  • Liquid propane (LP) systems
  • Awnings
  • Mirrors
  • Batteries
  • Plumbing
  • Blinds
  • Refrigerators
  • Cameras
  • Roof and full-body reseals
  • Charging systems
  • Satellite systems
  • Electrical
  • Seals and gaskets
  • Electronics
  • Skylights
  • Entry steps
  • Slide out systems
  • Body and Paint
  • Insurance Claim services
  • Furnaces
  • Towing systems
  • Generators
  • Vents and fans
  • Hitches
  • Water systems
  • Inverters

Holding Tank Tips Mesa, Phoenix, Az

When it comes to the holding tank on your RV, the question is whether to leave the tank valves open or closed when connected for an extended length of time.

There are two types of holding tanks on any self-contained RV (not talking fresh water storage here). You have your Grey Water (sink, shower, dishwasher and washing machine) and Black Water (toilet).

When using your RV for an extended time and you are connected to a sewer system, most people will open the Grey Water tank and leave it open. Leaving this tank open will save you the time and energy of dumping the tank all of the time. You will use more water than you think, especially if you are doing laundry and taking showers in the rig rather than using the park or resort facilities.

You should never allow items down the sink or shower drain other than water or other liquids. It is best to avoid letting any food waste, or other foreign objects go down the drain. These items may sit at the bottom of the tank and cause issues including odors. If you choose to dispose of liquids other than water such as soda, you should turn on the water first and let it run during and for a minute or so after you have dumped the foreign liquid. This will both dilute the liquid and allow enough flow for everything to escape out of the tank.

If you find your Grey Water tank starts to smell or you have accidentally rinsed some items down the drain you may want to close the valve and fill the tank with fresh water, let it sit for a while then empty it. I have never had an odor from my Grey Water tank.

Your Black Water tank is a different story. This tank holds all of the waste from your toilet. You should always keep your Black Water tank closed except to empty it.

Most RV Toilets do not provide enough water to dispose of  the waste each time you flush. If you keep your Black Water valve open, the waste deposits will build up in the bottom of the tank and cause issues from smell to clogs. Keeping the tank closed will let the liquids build up and allow the contents to escape when you open the valve. After you empty you may want to rinse the tank out and add a little fresh water.

The use of chemicals in your Black Water is up to you. Some people say you need them and some say you don’t. I personally use chemicals only some of the time, I found it a waste of money to use them every cycle. If you empty your tank often you will not get odors. Chemicals are mostly used to reduce odors and lubricate the seals. They can also help in the breakdown of waste, but if you are emptying often they may not make a difference. For me I find that using chemicals once a month keeps my tank fresh and working properly.

When it comes to the use of chemicals you should follow the instructions on the product bottle and the owners manuals of your RV. Choosing to not use chemicals is something only you can decide.

Thank You

CEO OF RV Renovators

Monty G

RV Anti Sway Bar Mesa Az

A recreational vehicle will sway from side to side when traveling down a road. The motion makes it difficult to control the vehicle and creates an unpleasant ride. Affixing anti-sway bars to the vehicle’s suspension system or hitch will help stabilize it and reduce the swaying motion. Passing trucks and gusts of wind will no longer cause the RV to move back and forth.


Anti-sway bars use the weight of the RV to create stability. You install the bars to the vehicle’s frame and chassis. Anti-sway bars designed for a trailer’s hitch and tongue also work similarly. They help reduce the vehicle’s side-to-side motion by bracing the weight of the vehicle’s axle against the chassis. The anti-sway bars distribute the recreational vehicle’s weight evenly. The bar on each side effectively holds the vehicle when a gust of wind hits it.

Turning and Passing

Wrestling the steering wheel back and forth to control the RV’s swaying will wear you out. Trying to make the recreational vehicle curve on a winding road is dangerous and presents risks of swaying. Anti-sway bars stabilize the vehicle on every curve and keep it from swaying. They give the RV more maneuverability, especially when passing other vehicles on the road. Preventing ongoing sway will help keep the recreational vehicle’s structure stable and prevent unneeded wear and tear. Continuous sway of the RV may cause the structure to become compromised and leaks to occur.


Several varieties of anti-sway bar systems exist; the type you need depends on the size of the recreational vehicle and its use, such as fifth-wheel trailers, pull trailers or motorhomes. A dual-cam sway control system works on large, long pull trailers. The bars attach to your trailer’s swing bars and A-frame, right beside the hitch. The cams hook on either side of the trailer and help prevent sway before it begins. The cams unlock when the trailer turns to allow it to move but still prevent intense swaying. Hitches with attached anti-sway bars work on small tongue trailers.

Anti-Sway Bars on Hitch

A weight distribution hitch has anti-sway bars attached to it; the bars help to stabilize the trailer. They prevent swaying by transferring the trailer’s weight to the rear of the trailer and its rear axle. If the trailer weighs more than 50 percent of the pulling vehicle’s weight, it should have a weight distribution hitch, according to eTrailer. The hitch’s anti-sway bars have a spring system that helps to distribute the weight and alleviate the swaying.


Thank You


Roof Neglect will eventually remind you the importance of maintenance

Here in Arizona, Mesa to be exact, as the heat takes its toll and causes many Tire Blow-outs its easy to loose focus on the importance of a good roof seal. As Monsoon season begins in Arizona it’s always better to bring your Motor Home, Trailer, Fifth Wheel, Toy Hauler, and all RVs down before the rain starts and begins to ruin the wood frame or aluminum frame. You can bring your rig in for a free drive through check out of your roof and then we can tell you how much of a life your Roof seal still has.  Here at RV Renovators Mesa Arizona we specialize in all types of services from Collision & Body Repair, Interior remodeling, Windshield Replacement, Custom Cabinets, Custom Paint, #1 Fiberglass Repairs in Arizona. Once again bring your RV in to our facility so we can help keep your house on wheels your home.


Junior CEO

Levi Germaine